Costa Rica - San Jose, La Fortuna & Rincon de la Vieja NP
View of the jungle from the Mistico Hanging Bridges
Overview:
Costa Rica had been on our list for a long time and I had heard so many great things about it. It is a leader in eco-tourism, has an incredible range of biodiversity, and is very accessible from the USA.
What I Did:
Our whole trip was built around going to see Paul McCartney play in the capital of San Jose, and we only had about 4 days after that. We had a very, VERY hard time figuring out where to go in those 4 days and everytime we did more research on options it got harder. In the end, we spent 2 days in San Jose, and then went north to La Fortuna/Arenal, and then Rincon de la Vieja National Park before flying home out of Liberia in the north.
San Jose
Areas
San Jose
I really enjoyed San Jose, but felt that 2 days was the perfect amount of time for us. The main downtown area was very walkable and accessible from our hotel and it was a great introduction to the country. It’s interesting that even with Costa Rica’s heavy reliance on tourism, the capital and main port of entry don’t really cater to tourists in a way that seems overdone. There is plenty to do and find if you want to look for it, but it isn’t presenting itself as a caricature of the nation in the ways that I’ve seen other places become. It is first and foremost focused on being a working, functioning, livable city for its residents.
While I felt that 2 days was the right amount of time for us, I should also say that I think I would feel different if I was fluent in Spanish. We didn’t do some things - like visit the National Museum - because we aren’t fluent.
La Fortuna
I was worried that La Fortuna would be too touristy because it showed up on literally every guide that I saw. While it is certainly more catered towards tourists than San Jose, I didn’t think it was too sterilized. The town itself is small and nice to walk through, and it is a great jumping off point for lots of excursions, tours and activities. It should be noted, though, that some of the places that you might come across listed as free attractions might have “attendants” at their parking areas trying to get you to pay.
Rincon de la Vieja
This area was so much more remote than La Fortuna and San Jose. The towns are small, the roads are windy and nature is the primary attraction. The area we were in has lots of hot springs and waterfalls, which is why we went, but even the waterfalls in the National Park have additional entry costs to them. I had been really excited to go swimming in the picturesque waterfalls and pools, but between the added cost and the wet weather we had, it didn’t happen.
Arenal Volcano from La Fortuna
Attractions
San Jose
Parque Nacional
Municipal Crafts Market
San Jose Central Market
La Paz Waterfall (not in San Jose, but closer to there than it is to anywhere else on our list).
La Fortuna
Rincon de la Vieja National Park
Las Pailas Trail
Waterfalls
Food & Drink
San Jose
Cafe Rojo
Silvestre
Tizate Coffee Shop
La Mancha Coffee Shop
Kam Breakfasts & Bakery
La Fortuna
Soda Mimi & Soda Viquez
Arabigos Coffee House
Liberia
Casa Liberia
La Paz Waterfall
Ireland - Dublin
Ha’penny Bridge at night
Overview
Dublin is cut in half by the River Liffey. The northern half of the city is traditionally more working-class and the southern half posher. Both halves of the city have plenty to offer, but most of the city’s primary sites are clustered around the river, mostly on the southern side. Today the city is an encapsulation of the change that has occurred in Ireland over the last 20 years, as it hosts a strong job market and vibrant population.
What I Did:
We stayed just south of the River Liffey - which runs through the city - between Temple Bar and Trinity College and spent about 2 days wandering the neighborhoods clustered around the city center.
Kilmainham Gaol
Neighborhoods/Areas
Temple Bar and Trinity
Temple Bar is Dublin’s most famous, and most visited neighborhood and the closest thing Ireland has to Times Square in New York. Just south of the River Liffey, it has bars, restaurants and shops, and borders the area surrounding Trinity College, which includes Grafton St, St. Stephen’s Green and a number of smaller shopping and dining locations.
Grafton Street
Pedestrian shopping street.
Merrion Square
Park surrounded by houses known for their colorful doors.
Attractions
Kilmainham Gaol
Former prison that has held many Irish revolutionaries through the years and is now a museum.
Phoenix Park
Dublin’s largest urban park
Guinness Storehouse
More a museum than a brewery, the Guinness Storehouse tells the history of the brewery and the beer through engaging displays, and finishes at the top of the building in the Gravity Bar, which offers sweeping views of the city and surrounding hills.
Jameson Distillery
Distillery tour and museum
Christ Church Cathedral & St. Patrick’s Cathedral
Cathedrals dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. At one point, both were Roman Catholic, but Christ Church is now denominated with the Church of Ireland. Christ Church has a crypt and St. Patrick’s boasts about it’s most famous former Dean, the author and satirist Jonathan Swift.
St. Stephen’s Green
City park with walking paths, ponds, trees and memorials.
Trinity College & the Book of Kells
The premier college in the country has a beautiful campus to walk through and the medieval Book of Kells manuscript on display
O’Connell Street & the GPO
The headquarters of Ireland’s Easter Rising in 1916, the General Post Office (or GPO) still has some bullet holes and other evidence of that momentous time in Irish history. Additionally, in the garden level of the building – which is still a functioning post office – you can see a small museum on the conflict and its aftermath.
Shelbourne Hotel
Historic hotel where the Constitution of the Irish Free State was drafted.
Merrion Square
Getting Around
Most of Dublin’s primary sites and attractions are within a 2 mile x 1 mile area, which makes it very walkable. If you want to get around to those attractions more quickly, there are a few bus tour options, bike shares and a small light rail network – although that is primarily built to serve commuters and residents of the neighboring towns.
Ireland - Southwest Ireland
Poulnabrone
Overview:
Southwest Ireland has a landscape filled with natural attractions and dotted with small towns. You can see and get a taste for a good section of the area in 2-3 days, but there is more to discover if you slow down and take time to meander the region’s winding driving routes and lesser visited corners.
What I Did:
We set out from Galway and did 2 days in the southwest. Day 1 was spent driving through The Burren and to the Cliffs of Moher before spending the night in the town of Killorglin, at the northern side of the Ring of Kerry. The weather was pretty foggy on Day 2, so we skipped the Ring of Kerry and instead drove through Killarney National Park and Kenmare, did a quick hike at Moll’s Gap and spent the night in Cork.
Moll’s Gap
Neighborhoods/Areas
Small towns
Ireland in general is littered with small towns with a few BnBs and pubs. This section of the country in particular has a number of notable ones that serve the natural attractions around them. Some towns are sleepier than others, but if all you need is a bed, a meal and a pint, you can’t really go wrong with any of them. I visited Kinvarra, Killorglin, Adare and Doolin, but there are many others.
Kenmare
Kenmare is a small town that normally would fit into the section above, but Kenmare stands out on its own specifically because of its exception culinary scene.
Cork
Cork is Ireland’s second largest city. It has all of the amenities that you can expect from a city of its size – coffee shops and bars, shops, etc. – but doesn’t have the pull to compete in tourism with either the surrounding natural attractions in the west/southwest of the island, or the urban attractions that Dublin offers. It does, however, boast a great food scene. Cork does have some draw for the Irish diaspora, though, as the city (and nearby town of Cobh) was the final embarkation point for many Irish emigrants.
Attractions
The Burren
The Burren lies south of Galway, primarily in County Clare. It gets its name from the Irish Boirinn, which means rocky district. That name is perfect for the area - it is a landscape of rolling, rocky hills and contains some prehistoric sites.
Poulnabrone
Neolithic tomb in The Burren.
Burren Perfumery
We were pointed in the direction of the Perfumery by a local and it was a great stop to break up our day. Aside from the perfumes and skin products they make, they also have a great tea shop that served the best strawberry jam I’ve ever had in my life.
Adare
Small town that bills itself as “Ireland’s Prettiest Village”
Cliffs of Moher
Arguably Ireland’s most famous – or at least instantly recognizable – attraction.
Cliffs of Kilkee
The Cliffs of Moher’s little brother – smaller, less dramatic, and less visited, but still beautiful.
Ring of Kerry
A scenic drive around the Iveragh Peninsula in southwest Ireland’s County Kerry. Its 179km-long, circular route takes in rugged and verdant coastal landscapes and rural seaside villages.
Blarney Castle
Home of the famous Blarney Stone
Rock of Cashel
Historic site in Tipperary that has been a castle and cathedral, and now is largely ruins.
Food & Drink
Siar (Kinvarra) – Coffee shop and café
Franciscan Well Brewery & Brewpub (Cork)
The English Market (Cork)
Burren local
Ireland - Galway & Connemara
Connemara
Overview:
Galway is considered to be the most “Irish” of Ireland’s cities. Even with just under 80,000 people, it is Ireland’s fourth largest city. It has a concentrated downtown with lots of cultural, shopping and dining options that are very accessible. It is the halfway point of the Wild Atlantic Way, the gateway to Connemara and a jumping off point for the Burren and the Aran Islands.
Western Ireland contains most of the island’s notable natural landmarks or areas - Connemara, The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher to name a few. It is an area that has lots of areas that are barren, but still striking and beautiful.
What I Did:
Galway was our base for our first 2 days in Ireland. We stayed in The Docks area of Galway City, which gave us very easy and quick access to the city center and High Street. We spent the first day walking around the city, exploring its shops, markets and pubs, and walking along the river and waterfront. On Day 2, we left the city and did a loop of Connemara.
Our only planned stops on this drive were Kylemore Abbey and the town of Clifden. In between, we stopped along the way at any random site, scene or sheep-induced traffic jam we found. We made it back to Galway for the late afternoon in time to watch the Gaelic Football All-Ireland final in a pub. Mayo lost to Dublin, much to almost everyone in the pub's disappointment.
Clifden
Neighborhoods/Areas
Galway
Latin Quarter/High Street
High Street is a pedestrian only thoroughfare that is the heart of the Latin Quarter. It runs for a quarter mile from the River Corrib near the Spanish Arch almost up to Eyre Square, and it has a small network of smaller pedestrian only streets that sprout off of it. The area has a great mix of restaurants, pubs and shops that range from overly touristy to basic convenience.
The Claddagh
Small section of the city across the River Corrib from High Street, with a smaller collection of shops and restaurants.
Connemara
Clifden
The largest town in the Connemara region, Clifden offers a compact downtown with shops and restaurants. It also provides quicker access to some of the coastal islands - like Inisbofin - and the rest of the area than you can get if you stay in Galway.
Kinvarra
Coastal village south of Galway city that can serve as a gateway to The Burren region. Neighborhoods/Areas
Attractions
The coastal road along Ireland’s west coast is an attraction in its own right. You could easily spend weeks just meandering along this route. Galway is its midpoint, so you can use the city as a base for day drives.
Galway
High Street
Spanish Arch
Arch remaining from the former city walls that dates back to the 16th century
Galway City Museum
Local history museum with exhibits on Galways past from prehistoric up to the present day.
Connemara
Connemara’s primary attraction is its natural beauty. The landscape is beautiful despite the fact that it is relatively barren. The scenery largely consists of sweep, steeping mountains, narrow valleys, peat bogs and lakes. Taking time to explore - either by foot or by car - is well worth it.
Kylemore Abbey
The primary physical attraction of Connemara is Kylemore Abbey. Originally built in 1868, it has been a castle/private estate, nunnery and school throughout its history. It is now open to the public to view some of the interior of the primary building, secondary buildings and the grounds.
The Burren
The Burren lies south of Galway, primarily in County Clare. It gets its name from the Irish Boirinn, which means rocky district. That name is perfect for the area - it is a landscape of rolling, rocky hills and contains some prehistoric sites.
Galway
NYC - Brooklyn & Lower Manhattan
View of Lower Manhattan from Brooklyn
Overview:
Brooklyn and Manhattan - even smaller sections of Manhattan - are so busy, active and filled with stuff that summarizing them in a single post is an impossible task. So I will stick to simply outlining the places we went and saw on a recent trip, with the full knowledge that lots and lots and lots of things are missing.
What I Did:
We went to NYC for 4.5 days with the intention of spending most of our time in Brooklyn, with just one or two excursions into Manhattan. However, 2 of the days we went were pretty gross and rainy, so we wound up going to some museums like The Met and MoMa that I had already visited and intended to avoid this trip. We still were able to see most of what we wanted though. Additionally, our trip was focused less on seeing traditional attractions like the Empire State Building, and more about wandering through the neighborhoods and parks to see what we could discover.
Neighborhoods/Areas
Brooklyn
Brooklyn Heights
High end residential area with a few main shopping thoroughfares and streets of elegant brownstones. It borders the East River and provides views of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty, as well as park space in the Brooklyn Bridge Park.
DUMBO
A small neighborhood consisting largely of old warehouse buildings that have been converted to restaurants,galleries, apartments and offices.
Cobble Hill
A slightly more laid-back, relaxed and - in places - busier version of Brooklyn Heights. Court Street and Smith Street have lots of shops and restaurants, and the rest of the neighborhood is the home to many young families and professionals.
Williamsburg
Hip neighborhood in Brooklyn known for its trendy boutiques, restaurants and cafes, as well as its views of Manhattan from the waterfront.
Park Slope
Residential area know for its indie boutiques, casual restaurants and open-minded community, as well as its easy access to Prospect Park..
Bushwick
An edgy and hip neighborhood, Bushwick is known for its street art, converted warehouses and diverse population and dining options.
Manhattan
Chelsea
Formerly a largely LGBT neighborhood, Chelsea now has lots of galleries, as well as upscale restaurants and shops
SoHo
Shopping destination known for its cobblestone streets
Greenwich Village
Epicenter of NYCs 1960s counterculture movement, Greenwich is still a LGBT-friendly neighborhood filled with cafes and bars.
Parks
New York doesn’t have a ton of green space, but it has done a great job with many of the parks that it does have, and has created some really interesting and iconic spaces out of the remnants of the city’s industrial past.
Brooklyn
Prospect Park
Brooklyn’s answer to Central Park.
Brooklyn Bridge Park
Green space and park along the East River with walking and biking trails, art installations, open lawns and athletic facilities
Brooklyn Bridge
Manhattan
The Vessel
High Line
Manhattan walking park built on an old rail line.
Little Island
Island park in the Hudson River just off of the Meatpacking District
Hidden pool in Prospect Park
Food & Drink
Bagels, Pizza and Bodegas
It is cliche, but New York really does have tons of options for great pizza and bagels, as well as sandwiches from bodegas - especially breakfast sandwiches. You can find options for these three in most neighborhoods and they can be a good, cheaper food option.
Chelsea Market
Food hall in Chelsea neighborhood of Manhattan
Porto Rico Importing Co.
Coffee shop that has been in business since 1907
Court Street Grocers
Sandwich shop with locations in Manhattan and Brooklyn
Vinegar Hill House
Season American dishes
Shelsky’s of Brooklyn
Jewish deli in Cobble Hill
Dekalb Market Hall
Food hall in Downtown Brooklyn
Khaosan Thai
Thai restaurant in Brooklyn Heights
Livingston Manor
Rustic bar in Downtown Brooklyn
% Arabica
Coffee shop near Brooklyn Bridge Park
Circa Brewing
Brewery with a wide selection of beer styles.
Places to Stay
Downtown Brooklyn
If you are particularly interested in a neighborhood and want to spend a lot of time there, you will have lots of options throughout the city. However, I really loved our base camp in Downtown Brooklyn. Downtown Brooklyn is just east of Brooklyn Heights and south of DUMBO. It does not have a ton of “local flavor”, but it is certainly there if you look in the right areas. Additionally, it provides great public transit access, even by NY standards. I counted access to 14 subway routes within 3-4 blocks of our hotel, and the East River Ferry is close by in DUMBO. All in all, everything that we needed was at our fingertips, and we could get to the places we wanted to get to generally in 15-25 minutes.
Getting Around
Getting around New York is generally very easy. The subway system is very extensive and runs on a regular schedule for just $2.75 per ride. The NYC Ferry is a nice supplement to the subway, but runs on a much less frequent schedule - so you need to plan your ferry trip more intentionally. Outside of that, the city’s neighborhoods are generally very walkable, there is an extensive bike share network, or you can use taxis to get around the city - although they can get very pricey.
U.S. Virgin Islands - St. Thomas
Intro
St. Thomas is the gateway isle of the U.S. Virgin Islands and home of the territory’s capital, Charlotte Amalie. It's known for its beaches and snorkeling spots and regularly sees an influx of cruise passengers who have docked for the day at Charlotte Amalie’s cruise port.
What I Did
I have been to St. Thomas twice, and had very different itineraries and experiences.
The first time, we stayed in the Charlotte Amalie and Havensight areas, without transportation. Downtown Charlotte Amalie has some of the island's more famous historical sights and attractions, but is geared to cater almost exclusively to cruise ship passengers. The main shopping area along the water is full of duty free shops and stores shutter around 5pm as the boats get ready to leave harbor. With this reality, we spent most of our time at our resort enjoying the beach and amenities.
For the second trip, we stayed near Red Hook on the East End and had our own car. Both choices made a huge difference. Red Hook has a small strip of restaurants and stores that offer a lively dinner and nightlife scene, and with our own car we were able to explore huge sections of the island on our own time and schedule.
Getting Around
It is possible to get around without your own car, with both formal taxis available, as well as a bus and "dollar taxi" system. Formal taxis can be very expensive - at the airport the quoted price for a ride to the East End was $90 for a 30 minute trip. The bus system is run by VITRAN and the "dollar taxis" generally follow the same routes as the bus system. Fares are $1-$2 based on the trip.
Getting your own car or scooter will certainly make getting around the island much easier. St. Thomas (and St. John, if you take the ferry over) is full of steep and windy roads, and they drive on the opposite side of the road. So it can be a bit intimidating to try driving, but you can get the hang of it pretty quickly and the benefits that you get from being able to access the whole island vastly outweigh the discomfort that comes from adjusting to the island driving style.
Attractions
Beaches
Magens Bay
Honeymoon Beach
Neltjeberg Bay
Coki Beach
Lindquist Beach
Sapphire Beach
Secret Harbor Beach
Brewers Bay
Viewpoints
Drake’s Seat
Mountain Top
Charlotte Amalie Overlook
Paradise Point
Other
Bluebeard’s Castle
99 Steps
Fort Christian
Fort Segarra
Mermaid’s Chair
Neighborhoods
Charlotte Amalie
The capital city of the USVI and population center of St. Thomas, downtown Charlotte Amalie’s main attraction is focused on catering to cruise ship passengers with duty-free shopping. There are some other historical attractions, but the waterfront area largely shuts down after the cruise ships leave port.
Red Hook
Sitting at the eastern end of St Thomas, Red Hook overlooks neighboring St. John and has a collection of stores and restaurants and serves as a primary ferry terminal with boats to St. John, Charlotte Amalie and Road Town in the British Virgin Islands.
North Shore
The north shore of St. Thomas isn’t a generally recognized or singularly cohesive area, but the entire north side of the island is dotted with beaches, including the most famous and popular beach on the island - Magens Bay.
Water Island
Sometimes referred to as “the fourth Virgin Island”, Water Island sits in the bay off of Charlotte Amalie and hosts a small population and provides hiking, biking trails and beaches. You can get the ferry to Water Island from Frenchtown in Charlotte Amalie.
Food & Drink
Northside Grind
Taco Chelles
Mim’s Seaside Bistro
Sunset Grille
Pesce Italian
XO Bistro
De’Coal Pot
Scoops & Brew
U.S. Virgin Islands - St. John
Intro
St. John is the smallest and least populated of the US Virgin Islands. Virgin Islands National Park encloses more than half of the island and provides pristine hiking, beaches and wildlife habitats.
What I Did
After spending some time in Cruz Bay, St. John's largest town, we started driving along the northern shore. On a previous trip, when we had less time, we went for a quick hike at the Annaberg Plantation and then spent a few hours at Trunk Bay. When we had more time, we stopped at Maho Bay to swim with turtles and then continued to drive around and explore the eastern side of the island, swinging through Coral Bay and doing a short walk at the Salt Pond Bay Trail. From there we drove back across the island via the central route through the mountains and spent a bit more time in Cruz Bay before catching our ferry back to St. Thomas.
Getting Around
Most ferries dock in Cruz Bay. From there, you can rent a car in town or catch a taxi. As in St. Thomas, cars give you much more freedom and an ability to have more control over your schedule, which may be key if you need to be back in town at a specific time to catch a ferry back.
Attractions
Beaches
Maho Beach
Cinnamon Bay
Honeymoon Beach
Salt Pond Beach
Trunk Bay
Hikes
Reef Bay Trail - According to the National Park Service, this "is a strenuous hike that will take you past some of the oldest and tallest trees on the island, Danish sugar plantation ruins, stone walls from cattle grazing, and ancient rock carvings left behind by the pre-Colombian Taino." It ends on the beach on the south coast of the island.
Annaberg Plantation - easy-to-moderate hike along the coast to the ruins of an old sugar plantation and other property buildings, with the ability to continue inland into the hills.
Ram Head Trail - trail leading past Salt Pond Beach at the southeastern corner of the island
Other
Mongoose Junction - a shopping center on the outskirts of Cruz Bay with restaurants and shops, including Made in St. John, a shirt and gift company featuring items made on the island.
Neighborhoods/Areas
Cruz Bay - St. John's largest (and, really, only) town, Cruz Bay is the primary entry point to the island and has most of the island's shops, restaurants and businesses.
Coral Bay - A smaller, loosely connected community on the west side of the island. Coral Bay has the air of an artsy hippie area with just enough shops and restaurants to get by.
Food & Drink
Windmill Bar - Bar on the top of one of the mountains outside that offers a view over the water towards St. Thomas and, with clear weather, sunset.
Irie Pops - Ice pop shop in Cruz Bay
Downtown Cruz Bay has a number of restaurants packed into its handful of small blocks, with options ranging from pricey seafood and steaks, to divey island bars.
Skinny Legs - Bar in Coral Bay serving basic American standards.
Places to Stay
The largest concentration of hotels and rental houses are in Cruz Bay and the neighborhoods southeast of town, but there is a smaller smattering of options throughout the island.